Wellington Gardens. Successful gardening for Wellington, Kapiti coast and Wairarapa, by Jon Muller .
General garden information for the Wellington
region ... excerpts
Wind
.........excerpt
Wind affects plant growth in many ways. Strong winds can damage plants,
or distort their growth. Trees deformed on their windward side is an all
too familiar sight in Wellington. Wind also increases water loss from
the plant and from the soil by evaporation.
Wellington's windy reputation is not entirely fair. Other parts of New
Zealand also experience strong winds, but the capital's position close
to the wind funnel of Cook Strait makes it a prime candidate. As we shall
see there are areas in Wellington that are more sheltered than others
from the prevailing north-westerlies and southerlies.
The more elevated your section the greater the likelihood of wind exposure:
those living in Newlands, for example, and in Lower Hutt's western hills,
can experience very strong north-westerlies.
Temperature normals
(1961-1990)
|
Area
|
Mean Daily Maximum Temperature
(deg C)
|
Mean Daily Minimum Temperature
(deg C)
|
| |
Jan.
|
Jul.
|
Jan.
|
Jul.
|
|
Paraparaumu
|
22.6
|
12.8
|
13.7
|
5.1
|
|
Pauatahanui
|
21.7
|
12.1
|
13.2
|
5.7
|
|
Porirua
|
20.9
|
12.0
|
13.4
|
5.5
|
|
Makara
|
18.0
|
9.6
|
12.4
|
5.6
|
|
Karori
|
19.9
|
10.9
|
12.4
|
4.7
|
|
Kelburn
|
20.4
|
11.9
|
13.4
|
5.9
|
|
Wellington Airport
|
21.3
|
12.0
|
14.4
|
6.4
|
|
Kaitoke
|
20.6
|
10.6
|
11.1
|
2.7
|
|
Te Marua
|
23.1
|
11.8
|
12.3
|
3.9
|
|
Wallaceville
|
21.7
|
11.9
|
12.2
|
3.0
|
|
Whitemans Valley
|
19.7
|
10.3
|
10.7
|
2.7
|
|
Avalon, Lower Hutt
|
21.7
|
12.2
|
13.5
|
5.1
|
|
Wanuiomata
|
21.2
|
11.5
|
12.5
|
4.2
|
|
York Bay
|
20.2
|
11.6
|
14.1
|
5.9
|
|
Masterton
|
23.8
|
11.9
|
11.5
|
2.9
|
|
Castlepoint
|
22.1
|
12.5
|
14.5
|
7.0
|
Sunlight
.........excerpt
Light is essential because plants require the sun's energy to photsynthsise
and produce food. Some plants need full sunlight for optimum growth, while
others have adapted to grow successfully in lower light conditions. Plants
such as tomatoes need full sunlight to ripen successfully. The number
of sunlight hours per year is an indication of how 'sunny' a place is,
but the hiding effect of hills and ranges will effectively reduce the
sunlight hours.
You need to look at the areas in your garden at different times of the
year. As the sun is lower in the horizon in winter the shading effects
will be greater. A large hill, building or tree can mean a sunny spot
in summer can be shaded for much of winter. This can have a big influence
on what can be grown in your garden. See Fig 2. This is also why even
though the sunshine figures shown can give you a general picture for your
area, the position of your section has to be looked at on its own merits.
Rainfall .........excerpt
Wellingtonians are lucky: the region doesn't get the extremes of rainfall
as often as some South Island areas ( recent droughts in Otago, for example)
or places further north (recent flooding in Northland). It tends to be
a more even, fairly reliable spread over the year, though it varies across
the region. The actual amount of rainfall that falls on your patch will
affect your plant selection. If you live in an area prone to dry spells,
such as in parts of the Wairarapa, you will need to select drought-tolerant
plants, unless you have an irrigation system.
Reducing the effects
of topography .........excerpt
Gardening on a slope is always a challenge. There are a number of options
for those of us living on slopes.
- Decks
If space is limited, or the section very steep, then a deck can provide
an extension of the living space of the house. Decks, like courtyards,
are ideal for growing container plants.
- Terracing
There is an unlimited market in Wellington City for the building of
retaining walls. Creating a flat space on a slope can be an expensive
operation. It is better to create a series of terraces that involve
the minimum of cutting and filling. The higher the wall, and the greater
the amount of soil to be shifted, the greater the cost.
Retaining walls should always be built correctly - a wall that falls
over is not just a sorry sight, it is very expensive to fix. It is wise
to employ professionals if you don't know how to do it yourself. Collapse
is usually due to either inadequate drainage behind the wall or the
posts not being in deep enough. Once walls get over a certain height
they need a building consent permit, resource consent and an engineer's
plan. Check with your local council first.
- Planting
In some cases, the best idea for a steep bank is to plant it in suitable
plants for that location, especially if there is flat space elsewhere.
Once a dense cover is created, little maintenance will be required.
Native plants are often ideal.
Compost
.........excerpt
Clay soils and sandy soils can be improved by adding good quality compost.
Compost will improve the structure of clay soils, making it easier to
cultivate and work with. Adding compost to a sandy soil will improve the
water-holding capacity and its ability of the soil to retain and supply
nutrients to the plant.
There are two ways to add compost:
- Compost can be dug into the soil before planting. However, if the
soil is of a clay type do not dig in if it is too wet or too dry -wait
until the conditions are more favourable. You should aim to get a 50:50
mix of soil to compost. This method is ideal for growing perennials.
If planting over a large area or on steep sections, simply add compost
around each plant, a method more appropriate if planting trees.
- The alternative method for perennials and shrubs is to simply add
the compost to the top of the soil, and not dig it in. This method is
known as the 'no dig' gardening method. Then, when planting, the compost
will blend with the soil. If your soil is a compacted clay, it's a good
idea to loosen up the soil before adding the compost; this will help
the two layers to blend. Perennial weeds, like couch, should be controlled
before adding the compost.
Weeds .........excerpt
In addition to the weeds listed by the Wellington Regional Council, there
are a number of other weeds that gardeners are likely to come across.
|
Other Weeds
|
|
|
|
Broadleaf weeds in lawn eg dandelion
|
Use selective turf spray eg Turfmaster
|
Apply lawn fertiliser, keep lawn growing well.
|
|
Convolvulus, bindweed
|
Cut back and paint on solution of Woody weedkiller
|
Keep out of desired trees and shrubs.
|
|
Hydrocotyle
|
Spray with Hydrocotyle killer
|
Apply gypsum, or improve drainage
|
|
Ivy
|
Cut back and spray with Buster or Escort
|
Hand weed smaller plants, removing roots. Keep plants out of trees
and away from houses
|
|
Jasmine
|
Cut back and spray with Woody weedkiller
|
Keep out of trees or away from houses
|
|
Onion weed
|
Spray with Amitrole, or Buster
|
Dig out bulbs. Plant taller plants to smother weed.
|
|
Oxalis
|
Spray with Roundup
Or Death to Oxalis
|
Plant taller plants to smother weed.
|
|
Pellitory-of-the-wall
|
Spray with Buster
|
Dig out plants, taking care to avoid getting it on the skin
|
|
Wattle
|
|
Cut back or grub out before it seeds.
|
|
Wandering willie / tradescantia
|
Spray with Renovate or Buster
|
Rake off weed, removing debris from site.
|
The Wellington Regional Council Biosecurity Department can help you with
pest plant identification and advice. (Upper Hutt 04-526-5325 or Masterton
06-378-2484)
Lawns .........excerpt
One of the common problems with lawns laid on new sections is the topsoil
layer being too thin. Any new lawn should have at least 10 cm of topsoil
to provide adequate root growth.
Lawn maintenance means regular mowing, but it is very important not too
cut the grass too low. Remove only the top third. If the grass is cut
too low it stresses the plant. It also exposes the soil, making the lawn
more prone to weeds.
Regular lawn fertiliser applications in the growing season will encourage
grass growth and discourage weeds. Slow-release fertilisers are a better
choice as they are less likely to burn the lawn. Make sure that the lawns
are well watered when applying the fertiliser.
Using Professionals
.........excerpt
A number of the gardens featured in this book have been designed by landscape
professionals. Like most work in and around the home, it is advisable
to use professionals when designing or installing your garden.
This book will provide the basics to develop a garden in your part of
Wellington. However, if you require extra help, you could use one of the
following:
- Landscape designer or architect:
They will design your garden, including the plants and hard surfaces,
such as paved areas or decks. A scaled plan will detail construction
as well as plant layout. They can also arrange to get the plan implemented.
- Landscape contractor:
A contractor will do the work according to the plan. The two main types
of landscape work are:
(a) Hard construction - this involves hard surfaces, and many
would say hard work! You can get specialists in paving, block &
bricklaying, and timber construction such as fences. For work like block
walls, you should use a block layer. Don't forget that if your wall
is over a certain height you will need an engineer.
(b) Soft construction - this involves the planting, and addition
of topsoil, compost or mulch. It is important to obtain healthy, hardy
plants for your garden. For larger quantities of plants it is better
to source your plants from a wholesale nursery.
It is usual for the contractor to provide replacement plants for a short
period after planting as long as the reason wasn't negligence by the
owner, or vandalism. If you are unable to maintain your garden, you
could get a maintenance contract with the contractor who built the garden.
It is very important to ensure that the new development is managed for
weed control, watering, fertiliser addition, staking and pruning.
- Arborist:
Good arborists are trained in every facet of tree care; they can prune,
shape and remove shrubs and trees as your needs arise.
- Turf specialist:
There are specialists in turf construction that can lay turf or sow
turf seed, or maintain your lawn. A good quality lawn takes time and
effort, so it pays to use good quality seed, soil and advice.
As with most professionals, it pays to check their credentials. Contractors
and arborists should have public liability insurance to cover any possible
damage to your property.
Professionals should provide written quotes for work. They are usually
listed in the Yellow Pages, and may be a member of a related association
such as the NZ Arboricultural Association.
The best reference you can get is from a satisfied friend who has used
these professionals.
|
Excerpts
A successful Maungaraki Garden analysed
21 gardens
Photos and comments
Wellington's
Ecological zones
Map & Suitable plants
Praise for Wellington Gardens
Introduction
Contents
How to use this book
Buy books
General garden information
· Wind - Temperature - Sunlight · Rainfall · Topography · Compost · Weeds · Lawns
· Using professionals
Acknowledgements |